I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

tpenfield

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ok, remember it is me - what gaps?
Not sure what you are talking about, gaps?

In other news . . .

I need to get/make some new mounting plates for the instrument panel. The Honda stuff is different size/shapes, so most of the previous mounting plates need to be replaced. A few are staying ( GPS, Fuel Gauge) . . . I tried to find an exact match for the material, but struck out.
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Helm layout with the Honda engines. I'll need to confirm things with the re-power shop.
Instrument-panel-A.jpg
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Anyway . . . I decided to make all new instrument panel blanks and the re-power shop can cut openings as needed.
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Here is my first attempt at the single by (Fuel Gauge) that will go in the upper right. (my handy work is on the right)
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IMG_9717.JPG
 

tpenfield

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Gap . . .
1/2" gap it goes up about 1" . . . When I did the putty to secure the extension bracket, I made a gasket to prevent the putty from squishing out and falling on the ground. Accordingly, the putty squished upward, which I wanted. Going to fill the gap with VE putty and then scarf joint over.
 

redneck joe

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since i don't mind playing the village idiot, for those unaware:

"VE putty" typically refers to Vinyl Ester Putty, a high-strength, waterproof filler primarily used in marine and composite repairs (like boat hulls). It provides excellent adhesion, osmosis resistance, and sands easily
 

redneck joe

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not joints i know about from an early age, then i got into wordworking and learned about other joints.

Not sure how you will complete a scarf on just a half inch gap with the two units already installed?
 

Pmt133

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That is (from quick glance) a clean GMT800.

Oh and good job. They kick the proverbial tires on you a lot or just an in and out transaction?
 

redneck joe

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ok, so just glass. In my mind a scarf is one of the below not just glass over a filled gap, or will you offset the layers to achieve something similar to a traditional?


1780261453082.png
 

Scott Danforth

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Ted, since most hull pods are just bolted and caulked........pretty sure the lap/butt joint is now under the over-kill category.

you should be fairing soon. time to make it smooooth and gel coat it.
 

redneck joe

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i would overkill. it is just a couple layers of fiberglass imo. I actually did fiberglass as a kid on my Sears Ted Williams 12' Gamefisher. Keel started cracking. Lasted several years until i beat it up more. From 14 to 17 years old had lots of fun with that and the 15 Rude....

In my very non expert opinion i would do short first then overlap with the larger or do your layup then one more larger to overlap the two others.

Remember, i'm the village idiot...
 

Pmt133

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Dad had a game fisher growing up as well. Had a 9.9 ted Williams outboard as well I believe. Used to overheat (he built it himself from parts) as the water tube wasn't aligned right. So your run it a bit. Stop. Dump water on the power head. Then go again.

I'm with joe, I'd go short side first as well. Granted for this, it really isn't as important. I just always felt it could get a smoother layup small to large.
 
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