Hi all,
I am investigating previous sudden and clean shutoffs of my VP 3.0 GLP engine. Initially, I suspected fuel pump being shut down by a struggling alternator and a potentially failing bilge blower, this latter knocking down both dashboard and multimeter voltage reading from 14V to 12V while running, or from 12V to 10V on the ON position. This bilge pump has now been replaced, with both dashboard, multimeter and Garmin Striker voltage showing ~13.9 - 14.3 V while cruising at ~2800-3000 RPM; with bilge blower, if turned on, dropping voltage by less than 0.5 V.
I now suspect that my oil pressure safety switch might be the culprit.
Few days ago, I returned from an ~8 km trip, running smoothly at ~3000 RPM. Took boat home and parked it in driveway, then attempted to rinse the engine, but it would not start. This was approximately 30 minutes after shutting engine down. I was hoping that a potentially overheated oil safety switch or fuel pump relay are playing up and would start later.
I've tried starting a few times since, to no avail. Lanyard safety switch on, and there is spark.
Trying to listen to fuel pump humming is difficult, as I have a default continuous alarm while on the ON position.
Firstly, I need to know which one of A and B is the oil pressure gauge sender, and which one is the oil pressure safety switch (that could potentially disable my fuel pump). Wire color on A is blue, on B is light brown.
My gauge usually indicated between 20 - 40 PSI oil pressure. As I now attempt to start, and engine keeps turning over but not starting, oil gauge works up to same ~40 PSI over the ~5 seconds I attempt the start.
I did bypass what I thought was the oil pressure safety switch, connecting B to C. Still no start.
Resistance measurement values are:
Between B and C (or between B and other ground points): 4 Ohms, with brown wire on or off the spade.
Between A and C (or between A and other ground points): 252 Ohms when blue wire removed from threaded stud, 144 Ohms with wire on.
Are these values indicating anything
Single engine, single sender.
Any suggestion as to what to try next is welcome.
Thank you.
I am investigating previous sudden and clean shutoffs of my VP 3.0 GLP engine. Initially, I suspected fuel pump being shut down by a struggling alternator and a potentially failing bilge blower, this latter knocking down both dashboard and multimeter voltage reading from 14V to 12V while running, or from 12V to 10V on the ON position. This bilge pump has now been replaced, with both dashboard, multimeter and Garmin Striker voltage showing ~13.9 - 14.3 V while cruising at ~2800-3000 RPM; with bilge blower, if turned on, dropping voltage by less than 0.5 V.
I now suspect that my oil pressure safety switch might be the culprit.
Few days ago, I returned from an ~8 km trip, running smoothly at ~3000 RPM. Took boat home and parked it in driveway, then attempted to rinse the engine, but it would not start. This was approximately 30 minutes after shutting engine down. I was hoping that a potentially overheated oil safety switch or fuel pump relay are playing up and would start later.
I've tried starting a few times since, to no avail. Lanyard safety switch on, and there is spark.
Trying to listen to fuel pump humming is difficult, as I have a default continuous alarm while on the ON position.
Firstly, I need to know which one of A and B is the oil pressure gauge sender, and which one is the oil pressure safety switch (that could potentially disable my fuel pump). Wire color on A is blue, on B is light brown.
My gauge usually indicated between 20 - 40 PSI oil pressure. As I now attempt to start, and engine keeps turning over but not starting, oil gauge works up to same ~40 PSI over the ~5 seconds I attempt the start.
I did bypass what I thought was the oil pressure safety switch, connecting B to C. Still no start.
Resistance measurement values are:
Between B and C (or between B and other ground points): 4 Ohms, with brown wire on or off the spade.
Between A and C (or between A and other ground points): 252 Ohms when blue wire removed from threaded stud, 144 Ohms with wire on.
Are these values indicating anything
Single engine, single sender.
Any suggestion as to what to try next is welcome.
Thank you.
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