Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

sprink56

Cadet
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
11
I have followed this thread for a while and find it facinating that we all have this love affair with boating and our boats. Frisco Jarrets is a real trooper and must have the energy level of the energizer bunny!!...but he knows what he's doing and I for one appreciate the things that he shares.

Anyway...my latest project is a '79 Formula 255 Liberator...my 4th Thunderbird Formula.
I picked this one up here in South Florida this past December and have been bringing it back to sea-worthy over the past 7 months. The boat has only been in Florida for a year or two...having spent most of it's life in Michigan. I bought the boat from a guy in Ft. Lauderdale that has a summer home in Traverse City, MC and winters here. He brought the Formula down 2 years ago but lost interest in it after getting involved in Sea-Doos and larger Bertrams...so it just sat in a lot in Miami ...uncovered,,,exposed to the elements.

It came from the Decatur,IN factory and was built in March of '79. It came with twin 260Mercruisers, a pump out head, shore power and a pressurerized water system. It was originally 2: tone yellow and white and within the last 7~8 years was professionaly painted with white Imron...the finish is excelent...in fact it looks almost new in that regard. It was also fitted recently (5 years?) with a very well made Sunbrella Bimini top complete with a Sunbrella drop to the transom with zippered Eisenglass all around. Also included is a Sunbrella cockpit cover for long distance towing. The interior was reworked about 10~12 years ago with the original cockpit seating being replaced with bolsters and a relocated rear bench and larger engine cover. This was all built from plywood or scraps of pallets or what ever could be found on the side of the road and was put together with standard drywall screws (no...I'm not kiddig). As you might expect...most of this is rotten and all I have is just enough structure to re-use it as a pattern if I stay with the current layout. The cabin was re-done as well with the original cushions being re-covered in a high quality blue marine grade tweed material. The interior cabin panels were replaced with construction grade/interior finish "bead board" and painted with white enamel.

The engines were replaced in 2006 with Mercruiser long blocks. The port drive was in great shape. The starboard drive had been run for a while with a split U-Joint bellows so the gimball bearing was almost locked up with corrosion and the transom housing was corroded to the poit that it had to be replaced. I found a good number one Merc "fresh water" transom assembly and gimbal housing along with new trim rams. Changing all of that ofcourse require pulling the starboard engine and gave me a chance to clean the bilge up a bit. I also installed new gimbal bearing, U-Joint and Exhaust Bellows and shift cable on that side. Un-believably...no water entered the case on the starboard drive and it held pressure and shifts fine...so I re-used it. The manifolds and risers were good on both engines and I have replaced the distributors as well as re-built both Q-Jet carbs.
I had to replace the power steering pump and hoses as well as the starboard side alternator.

I finaly got it in the water in March and was suprised how well it runs. I'm still tuning and playing around with larger trim tabs but so far my best "top end" has been 68 MPH GPS!! Not bad for a 32 year old boat.

I replaced the bolsters with some original Formula bucket seats I got from a fellow on the Formula Boat Forum and am now going through the process of re-designing a replacing rotten plywood. Amazingly, the stucture of this old bird is rock solid...no stringer or transon rot...not even any soft spots in the floor. This is a testament to Formula build quality.

Here are some pics so far.

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I'll post some more over the next few days.

I'm starting to have fun now but it's been a long road.
 

LX Kid

Ensign
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
993
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Woooooooooo! That is "super nice, sweet and wish it were mine!" Like I could afford the fuel bill. Ha Does'nt look like it needs a lot though. How about a pic of those two 260 twins? Nice find and welcome to the forum!
 

sprink56

Cadet
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Woooooooooo! That is "super nice, sweet and wish it were mine!" Like I could afford the fuel bill. Ha Does'nt look like it needs a lot though. How about a pic of those two 260 twins? Nice find and welcome to the forum!

Thanks for the words...here you go..

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As far as th gas consumption goes...I can cruise at 30~35 MPH on the primaries of the carbs and burn about 8~10 Gallons/Hr. Once I break 45 I'm getting into the secondaries on the Quadra Jets and it goes down hill fast...about 15~18 GPH at 50 MPH...but remember...that's with 2: engines running and that's the total consumption.:cool:
 

sprink56

Cadet
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Here are some of the things I ran into once I got into this project:

This is what happens when you operate a Mercruiser Sterndrive with a split U-Joint bellows

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You get to do this:

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It always amazes me how guys that own boats will abuse their equipment to the point of failure...knowing full well that a repair has to be made. You guys should have heard that rusted up gimbal bearing screaming when I first started the starboard engine...I hope I don't have to ever hear that sound again....very scary.
 

sprink56

Cadet
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

This is what it looked like new...the yellow is striking. I remember the first time I saw one of these 30+ years ago...I thought ...WOW!!

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We don't build them like this anymore.

So I set out on a challenge....can I purchase and restore a '70's/'80's twin engine power boat for $15K?
:rolleyes:

Purchase price with trailer- $3500 :D
Replace gimbal and transom assembly - $ 1500 (wasn't counting on this one)
New Power Steering Pump and hose - $ 530
New Alternator - $ 70
New Belts and Water Hoses - $ 120
Used 1984 Formula 242 LS Seats $ 200

Total to date $5920......and it's in the water:cool:...

Stay Tuned....
 

ingalp01

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2010
Messages
357
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Awesome looking boat, and I love the lines. Can't beat the older ones in my opinion. Keep the pics coming and some video of that thing dancing across the water at 60 plus would be SaWeeeet! Keep us posted...
 

bear_69cuda

Commander
Joined
Oct 10, 2008
Messages
2,109
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Great boat!

I'll be tuning in and watching progress...

Welcome to the forum dude!
 

sprink56

Cadet
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Just a few updates. One issue I have been having was an intermittant problem with the starboard engine hessitating and sometimes quitting during acceleration. I am running Q-Jet carbs and have re-built several over the years. I purchased a high quality marine kit from Cliff's High Performance and it seemed to cure my problem. Then all of a sudden the problem re-appeared. At first I thought that I was having a fuel delivery problem...but I had replaced all of the fuel lines and filters. I decided to pull the carb and go through it again. After I removed it I noticed that as I moved the throttle from closed to wide open every thing looked fine. Then I manually operated the secondary air valve and noticed after 3 cycles that the butterflys were getting stuck in the up position and not allowing the secondary metering rods to fall back into the secondary jets. This throws the whole secondary metering system out of whack and will stall the engine unless you are running wide open. I looked at why this is happening and discovered that there is a bushing in the air=horn assembly that supports all of this and mine has a bunch of slop in it.

I am going to tear into this and repair it but in the meanwhile I found a source online for re-built Q-Jet marine carbs for $240 delivered...I ordered one. I'm going to keep the old one for a spare but will have peace of mind with the new one.

This is the kind of stuff we get into with older boats that will agravate the hell out of you trying to track it down.

Stay tuned...
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Awesome boat! The yellow must return.......
 

sprink56

Cadet
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
11
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Boat restoration and reporting the progress of it becomes a chronology of events. Some are barely worh mentioning, such as a new battery or something like that. Occasionaly something comes along that the knowledge of how a particular problem was solved is worth sharing.

I received my re-built Quadra-Jet Marine Carburetor from National Carburetors in Jacksonville, Fl. and was waiting on the Fed Ex man when it arrived. It's July 4th weekend and I was excited about installing and ajusting it so we could get out on the water.

I put the carb on, hooked everything up, turned on the water to my "muffs" and the starter wouln't connect with the flywheel. All I got was the spin of the starter with no bendix runout to engage the flywheel. This is the starboard engine, one of 2: 260 Mercruisers. I had often dreaded this day because I knew replacing it was going to be pure hell. You can't even see the damn starter ...much less get to it to remove it.

The problem in replacing the starter on this engine is that in the starboard position in a deep vee hull like a Formula and many others, you quickly run out of access room since the starter is in the starboard or outboard location in a spot where the hull is sloping up towards the chine. Understand that the port engine starter access is difficult, at least you can see it and there is room for access beneath it because it is near the deepest part of the hull at the keel.

I enlisted the help of my neighbor and his 21 year old son "Alex" who run a part time marine repair business to sort this out. The first thing we figured was to remove the outside exhaust manifold as well as all of the rear cockpit interior pieces. After removing all of this stuff plus the starboard battery, we positioned an old U haul blanket in front of the engines. We could then access the outside bolt (there are 2: verticle bolts through the starter base that bolt it to the block) which is the shorter of the two bolts.
The longer inside bolt is the real problem here. You have to get a socket and rachet up between the oil pan and the starter to get to the long bolt. Once you position the rachet though, there is no room between the hull and the starter to swing the rachet to loosen the bolt.

Finally after about 30 minutes of trial and error with different combinations of sockets and extensions...it hit me like a flash...AIR RACHET!!! So I got my air tools out and I have a 3/8" drive air rachet that we thought would work. The problem we now had was that everytime you get into that tight area with the air racchet the operating lever would get pressed spinning the rachet before you can get it on the bolt. We removed Alex and the rachet from the bilge and I then figured out how to take the air rachet apart...spin the head around and put it back together so that the operating lever or trigger faced up and did not get jammed into the hull while you are trying to use it. Suddenly Alex emerged from the boat with the old starter.

OK...now getting the new starter in. The outside short bolt went in quickly. Remember...you can't see any part of the inside bolt or where it goes...it's all located by feel. Also think about how you have to contort yourself from around the front of the engine accross the front and underneath the side of the engine. You can barely get a hand in the correct location to put the inside bolt in the hole. After several attempts over a 30 ~ 45 period of trying to do this and having the bolt fall out as he was positioning the air rachet in place...Alex had to come out and take a break.

Sometimes the simplest things become a solution to a hellacious problem. How in the hell to get the bolt to stay in the hole so we could get the air rachet in place. Conventional wisdom says to put the bolt in the socket and just hope that you don't cross thread it...too risky... a cross threaded starter bolt would mean pulling the engine and re-tapping the hole. Again..it came to me like a flash of lightning....CHEWING GUM!!! Alex chewed up a stick of gum...put it on the threads of the bolt and took off to "Bilge Hell" to get it done. As soon as we heard the air rachet spin the bolt home and stop we knew we were good.

The rest is a reversal of re-installing all of the connections as well as new exhast manifold gasket, exhaust manifold, hoses clamps and electrics.

I hit the switch and ZOOOOM...the new starter works!!!!

OK...this is something that any shop would look at and figure "Pull the engine"...spend the money and make it easy. Most of us driveway mechanics shudder at the thought of pulling one of two sterndrive engines just to change a starter. This job could easily get to be a $1250 ~ $1500 deal in a shop. We did it for less than a third of that.

In order to do this...you MUST have an air rachet...and a very flexible, mechanicaly inclined young person that can become a part time contortionist in order to successfully complete this job.

I am suprised that no one has devised a top mount starter set up for small block Chevy marine installations. It's common on big blocks in "Go Fast" sport boats but I have not seen it on small blocks.

So...now I have a new starter on my starboard engine and hopefully I'll spend some time on the water this 4th of July weekend.

Hopefully some one some day searching this forum will benefit from this...so I'll ad these key words for this thread to snag the search engines...Replacing a Small Block Chevy Marine Starter In a Formula Deep Vee hull boat.
 

sprink58

Recruit
Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
1
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

So after a nice few days of great running with no apparent problems I noticed that while I was just cruising along...the bilge pump was running nearly constantly.

I stopped with both engines running and opened the engine hatches...4" of water swirling in the bilge towards the bilge pump pick up and water cascading off of the top of the port engine starter. I figure it's a hose and head in. Got her out of the water on the trailer and back to the house. Once home I hooked up the muffs and ran the port engine to have a look. Long story short...a hole has developed in the freeze plug that is right above the starter!!

So now I have all sorts of night mares running through my head as to why this is happening...and if one freeze plug is rotted how long till the other 7 let go. Wonder what the water jackets look like? Some previous owner put a pair of automotive long blocks in this boat. This means that the head gaskets are probably next...I run offshore a lot and I can't risk it.

After some consideration and consultation...I am about to re-power this boat ...totally. I have decide to meet the need of increased performance along with the reliability of a conservative approach. I am about to install 2: new GM Vortec roller cam crate engines with carburetors producing 365 horsepower each and 425 ft lbs at 3100 RPM along with new Y pipes and new Alpha 2 drives & Alpha 2 Gimbal assemblies.

A fresh start for this solid old Formula but also one that will produce a level of performance and reliability commensurate with the Formula lineage. A total of 730 horse power in the water floating around in a 5600 lb. vessel with a 24 degree dead- rise deep vee hull should be a bit peppy to say the least and still run on 87 octane fuel. Having twin small blocks does have an advantage in that I don't have to build something wild and crazy in a boat this size to get it moving. I seriously considered stroker 383's but decided against it for 2: reasons..1) Reliability would be compromised in staying with the Alpha drive platform and 2.) changing over to twin Bravo dives would quickly double the cost of this entire project. To be sure...the ability to have 800+ horsepower on the transom is appealing but when the "bang for the buck" curve takes a drop like a brick...I felt it was time to rein this idea in a bit.

Even with this conservative approach...according to the BAM Marine Speed Calculator, this boat with 730 horsepower has the potential to run at 70+ MPH with 1000 lbs of fuel and passengers aboard...which would equate to a full tank and 2: adults on board.

After this re-power is complete I think this 255 Formula Liberator will probably be about the quickest and most reliable 255 Liberator running.

Stay tuned...it's going to be fun
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
65
Good luck! Thanks for sharing. I look forward to watching your progress!

What happened to all of your pics?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

Indymike

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 17, 2004
Messages
364
Re: Restoration project- 1979 Formula 255 Liberator.

Very nice! Good luck on the repower.
If I do another project boat it will most likely be a 255. Love those Libby's.

Got to ask though...why the ladder at the port side seat?
 
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